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Food & Culture

San Antonio's cookbook archive keeps the recipes families wrote by hand

Family notebooks and older printed recipes at UT San Antonio preserve the handwriting, kitchen knowledge and missing instructions behind Mexican home cooking.

By The Texas Chronicle · Texas · 3 min read

The handwriting changes from one cook to another in a set of Mexican recipe notebooks held in San Antonio.[1] The library catalogue identifies their authors as women from one Durango family, writing in ink and pencil in the early 20th century.[1]

Their notebooks belong to UT San Antonio Libraries' Mexican Cookbook Collection.[1] It began in 2001 with more than 500 books donated by San Antonio librarian Laurie Gruenbeck, who had collected them during three decades of travel through Texas and Mexico.[1]

Among the collection's older manuscripts is a cookbook dated 1789.[1] Its title records an unusually precise finishing time: Friday, at eight at night.[1] The catalogue lists orange soup among its recipes, alongside main dishes and desserts.[1]

For readers curious about family cooking, those catalogue entries offer something a polished recipe alone cannot: a family connection, different handwriting, or a record of when someone finished copying a book.[1] The collection preserves those details alongside published cookbooks.[1]

The public can read a growing selection online.[3] In an April 2026 update, Special Collections reported that more than 170 Mexican cookbooks had been digitized.[3] That was still only a fraction of the collection, the library cautioned.[3]

The online selection includes handwritten books spanning the 18th through 20th centuries and printed works such as the 1831 El cocinero mexicano.[3] It also includes La cocina en el bolsillo, a series of pocket cookbooks from the 1890s.[3] Two issues have covers illustrated by José Guadalupe Posada.[3]

The library describes the digitized books as free to read and download.[3] Those scans let readers consult the historical pages themselves, rather than depend entirely on a modern selection of recipes or an editor's transcription.[3]

Cooking from them takes a different kind of reading.[2] In 2020, the library published a dessert volume in its bilingual Recetas series.[2] Its editors warned that early manuscript recipes often assumed an experienced cook who needed few instructions.[2] Handwriting, damaged pages and crossed-out text could also complicate transcription.[2]

The volume's rice pudding, taken from an 1831 cookbook, begins with milk, rice and cinnamon.[2] A second preparation builds on that base with spices, egg yolks and nuts, then layers the pudding with dry sponge-cake crumbs and cream.[2] Its optional topping is set beneath a heated comal.[2]

That preparation asks a reader to think about a cooking vessel, the arrangement of heat and the texture of a dish.[2] The editors present Spanish transcriptions alongside English versions, keeping the older wording available for comparison.[2]

At one point, the English rice-pudding instructions call for some egg yolks without specifying how many.[2] The cook has to supply the judgment the page leaves out.[2] Elsewhere in the San Antonio collection, a family supplied its own record in pencil and ink, each woman's handwriting still distinguishable in the catalogue's description.[1]

Sources

  1. UT San Antonio Libraries: Mexican Cookbooks collection guide
  2. UTSA Libraries Special Collections: Recetas, desserts volume (2020)
  3. UT San Antonio Libraries Special Collections: Digitized Mexican Cookbooks (April 2026)